The past few weeks have been brutal to our landscapes. I have been getting many calls about people’s trees and grass not looking good. Most of the time, it is the heat and lack of water that we have been experiencing this July that is causing the dieback and stress. I found two short articles to share this week with you that talk about the biggest issues in the area that I am hearing about. As always, you can call me at 620-793-1910 if you have any questions.

Is My Lawn Still Alive?
Normally, a healthy lawn can stay dormant for a good five weeks and still recover. After the five weeks are up, it is important to keep the crown hydrated because if the crown dies, the plant dies.
The recommendations differ for a lawn that was overwatered or received so much rain this spring so that it produced a limited root system. Such a lawn may die unless allowed to slowly enter dormancy. This is done by shutting off the water gradually. For example, instead of watering several times a week, wait a week before irrigating. Then don’t water again for two weeks. Thereafter, water every two weeks as described below.
Apply about 1/4 inch of water every two weeks to hydrate the crown. This will be enough to hydrate the crown but not enough to encourage weed germination and growth.
If you are wondering if the turf is still alive, pull up an individual plant and separate the leaves from the crown. The crown is the area between the leaves and the roots. If it is still hard and not papery and dry, the plant is still alive. When rains and cooler weather arrive, the turf should come out of dormancy. However, we will probably have to deal with weeds that germinate before the turfgrass grows enough to canopy over and provide enough shade to keep weed seeds from sprouting.

Leaf Scorch on Trees and Shrubs
Leaf scorch is starting to show up on maples and other trees and shrubs. This is not a disease but rather a physiological problem associated with damaged roots, storm damage, limited soil area, or hot, dry winds. This year, the wet spring may have compromised root systems so that they are now struggling to provide the moisture needed by the leaves. Moisture is lost so quickly from the leaves that roots can’t absorb and transfer water quickly enough to replace what is lost. Though scorch is usually associated with droughty periods, it can appear even when the soil is moist.
Scorched leaves turn brown or, in some cases, turn black from the edges and between the major veins. If severe, the leaf may drop. Leaves may be affected over the entire tree or may be affected only on one side. White pines are also prone to this condition due to the delicacy of the needles.
Though scorch can be due solely to the weather, the condition of the roots of plants can make them much more susceptible to this condition. Shallow soils such as those over hardpan or rock lead to a limited root system that may not be able to absorb all the water needed. As mentioned, trees may be more sensitive to scorch this year because of the heavy rains many areas received this spring. In certain cases so much rain was received that oxygen was driven from the soil resulting in root damage. That root damage is now making it more difficult for trees to provide all the water needed for the leaves. Also, root damage due to disease, insects, poor drainage or construction can cause poor water uptake.
To help alleviate damage due to dry soils or limited root systems, water once per week for recently transplanted trees or every two weeks for large trees if there is no rainfall. Mulching small trees or shrubs will help conserve moisture.

Alicia Boor is the Agriculture and Natural Resources agent for the Cottonwood District K-State Research and Extension in Barton County. Contact her by email at aboor@ksu.edu or call 620-793-1910.